Tomar – Templar jewel in Portugal

Tomar is arguably the most stunning Templar location in Europe or the Middle East. In my view, if anywhere evokes the Knights Templar, then it is Tomar in central Portugal – an hour’s train ride from Lisbon.

When I visit, I stay at the Hotel dos Templários, just outside the centre of town, a splendid mid-century residence. From there, it’s a short walk up a hill opposite to the Templar fortress that stares like an evil eye over Tomar. Behind thick walls is the original circular Templar tower – the ‘charola’ – built in the 12th century. Joined on to it is the later 16th century convent of the Order of Christ.

The thick walled charola had an altar in the middle and Templar knights would originally have ridden in and been able to remain on horseback while a service was said by a chaplain standing in the middle.  Then they could ride out to do battle with the Moors.

The fortress was built by the fourth grand master of the Templars in Portugal: Gualdim Pais. His statue can be seen in Tomar’s main square in full armour, gripping his kite shield. He led the knights at a time when the threat from Muslim armies advancing from the south was very real.

This part of central Portugal was fought over by the muslim ‘Moors’ – who still ruled the south – and the northern crusader kingdoms for many years.  It was a kind of badlands where only the Templars were brave or foolhardy enough to take on the muslim forces.

FIND OUT MORE: Gualdim Pais – Portuguese Templar Grand Master

In my conversations with a local historian, there is remarkable caginess about admitting that this was once a Moorish city.  The official line seems to be that Tomar sits on two Roman towns, that it was largely  unpopulated in the Moorish occupation and after being ‘liberated’ by the Templars, they founded the city as we know it.

But it seems clear to me that within the Templar preceptory, there had been a Moorish settlement (a medina) and that the Templars used building techniques for their walls that have a strong Moorish influence.  The names of the gates in to the preceptory indicate a Moorish influence as well.

The charola now joins on to a vast convent complex built largely in the sixteenth century – two hundred years after the Templars had been crushed under orders from the Pope.  The Convent of Christ is an impressive building constructed in the ‘Manueline’ style – lots of rope motifs in the stonework and a famously elaborate window.  But it’s the charola that I’m always drawn to.  It’s a beautiful space, painted very elaborately – partly at the time but later as well.

French soldiers during the Napoleonic wars of the nineteenth century did some damage to the convent and the charola but nothing that would ruin your visit.  The whole thing is eerily deserted of both Templars and the later monastic inhabitants.  There are rows of empty cells flanking long corridors – very spooky.

Tomar also has a church where several of the Grand Masters are buried – Santa Maria do Olival.  It’s a bit underwhelming as a building and set next to what looks like a housing estate.  But note the pentagram window.  You’ll have to ask where Gualdim Pais is buried because he’s not easy to find.

Pais is viewed by the Portuguese as something of an Arthurian figure of legend – though unlike Arthur, we know Pais existed for certain.  But he’s shrouded in a certain degree of mystery.  One thing is certain is that he fought the Moors back time and again including a vast army that threatened to overwhelm Tomar in the 1190s.

If you would like to know more about the Knights Templar, then get your hands on a copy of my book: The Knights Templar – History & Mystery. Published by Pen & Sword and available on Amazon, Waterstones, Barnes & Noble, and WHSmith. Don’t miss out on your copy!